Positano and Capri

INTRODUCTION

This past year’s most popular travel destination is the Amalfi Coast, and for an excellent reason. These intricate towns built on the side of a cliff with beautiful ocean views are unlike anything you’ve probably ever experienced. Some of the towns that make up the Amalfi are Positano, Amalfi, Praiano, Capri, and Minori. Sorrento is technically not considered apart of the Amalfi but still is a popular destination. We booked two nights in Positano and two nights in Capri. Since these small towns are south of Naples, logistical planning is involved to get there. To make sure your travels are smooth, book your transportation in advance.

TRANSPORTATION

We left Rome out of the Roma Termini train station. These trains go all over the country, making travel very accessible. We booked a direct fast train, Frecciarossa, from Rome to Naples. This ride was just over an hour, and it was such an easy process. You can book your tickets on the Trenitalia website: Train Tickets. I suggest booking in advance so the prices are cheaper and you get more time options. When you arrive at the train station, your train platform will only be posted 15 minutes in advance, so there is no need to arrive hours early like the airport. If you select your seats, ensure you sit in the correct coach and chair. A worker will come around to ensure you’re in the right place, and you can get fined if you aren’t.  

Since the Amalfi Coast is far from Naples, we booked a private car transfer for 140 euros. We exchanged currency in the United States for our significant booked expenses before the trip. We knew some pre-planned activities only took cash, and we didn’t want to use a local ATM. The airport has this service but you may have to wait in a long line and the exchange rates aren’t as favorable. There are other cheaper options to get to the Amalfi such as shared vans, ferries, and buses. We chose the private car for convenience, and since Positano is a couple of hours away, we wanted to be comfortable and have space for our luggage. Please remember there is only one road to get there, so if there is traffic or an accident, it may take longer. The drive also requires you to go through a couple of long tunnels. If you get car sick, I highly recommend you take medication as the roads are windy and narrow. We used a company called Amalfi Coast Destination. They were professional, on time, and met us at the train station with our name on a sign for a smooth transition. Our driver dropped us off in front of our hotel in Positano, Alcione Residence.

POSITANO

Day one:

We stayed at the Alcione Residence for two nights. Finding accommodations in Positano is difficult due to the town’s size. We came across this highly-rated hotel via booking.com. Since we knew our travel dates, we booked it immediately when we found availability. This accommodation was the highlight of our trip. The room was large, and the balcony view was unbeatable. Our balcony overlooked the most famous cocktail bar in the town, Franco’s. Since it is a pricey town with limited hotels, many tourists come visit for the day, so by the evening, it’s much quieter. We arrived at check-in time, so when you book transportation, read into the check-in and check-out times.

Once we settled in, it was time for lunch, so we walked to a nearby restaurant called Mele Pizza & Grill. I got a margarita pizza, and my husband ordered a spicy pepperoni pizza with a limoncello spritz. The restaurant has lush lemon trees, providing perfect shade and a peaceful ambiance. After we finished, we explored the town full of cute local shops. The city contains numerous lemon trees, so their signature souvenirs are lemon-inspired. It was hot and crowded since we arrived on a Friday, so we stopped at a local market, Delicatessen, and picked up a couple of bottles of wine to enjoy on our balcony.

We watched the sunset, and I’ve never experienced a more beautiful view. We could hear the music from Franco’s bar, but other than that, it was such a peaceful, private, and relaxing environment. Since I researched restaurants before the trip, I knew I wanted to dine at La Galli Bistro. It was a 5–10-minute walk from our hotel and highly rated for the view. The city is just as breathtaking at night. We enjoyed our dinner and would recommend for a less-expensive meal in Positano. After dinner, we stumbled upon a cute cocktail and pastry stop, Angelo Café, that served inexpensive drinks, so we ordered a limoncello spritz to end the evening.

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Day two:

The following day, we had our complimentary breakfast served on our balcony. It came with coffee, bread, yogurt, fruit and more. We placed our order with the hotel staff the night before to select our meal and time of service. The hotel staff was always friendly and helpful. Since we only got to do a bit of exploring yesterday, we took a trip down to the beach to explore all the shops. We bought a lemon ornament for ourselves and some other gifts for our family members. It was time for lunch, so we grabbed food at Le Petit Murat in a local hotel. Since the area is known for fresh tomatoes and mozzarella, I indulged in a mozzarella and prosciutto dish, and my husband had a club sandwich. Seafood is prevalent in the area, but we aren’t big seafood eaters.

We continued shopping after lunch and grabbed another cocktail at Angelo Café before returning to our room. Positano is known for its beach clubs, but we booked one in Capri and didn’t feel the need to do two on a trip. If we would’ve gone to one in Positano, it would’ve been La Scogliera. Like everything else, I recommend booking your chairs months in advance to ensure a spot: La Scogliera. Beach clubs are expensive, so there is a public beach option, but it is very small and located on pebbles, so unless you bring a chair, it isn’t the most comfortable.

For dinner, I tried to make a reservation at La Sponda, a fine-dining restaurant at Le Sirenuse Hotel, but it books up so quickly unless you’re staying at their hotel. I called to make sure there were no cancellations that evening, and they suggested stopping by at the opening to double-check. It lightly rained that evening, so we didn’t get to watch the gorgeous sunset. Luckily, our balcony had an awning, so we could still enjoy the outdoor view. After the rain stopped, we went to La Sponda to see if we could get seated but had no luck. Since we didn’t have a reservation made, we ended up at Ristorante Max. It was an okay dining experience, but we were slightly disappointed in the service and food. After dinner, we returned to our balcony to enjoy the view with more wine to conclude our final evening. The next morning, we were heading to our final destination, Capri.

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CAPRI

Day one:

We head down to the marina with our luggage in the morning to get on our ferry to Capri. A few major companies to book through are NLG Jet, Alicost, and Positano Jet. We booked our tickets through a third party,  Ferry Hopper, to obtain access to all the available times. We used NLG Jet, and it departed at 10:55 a.m. The recommendation is to arrive at least 20 minutes early to get your tickets and purchase luggage tags. The ferry ride is around 30 minutes. Once we arrived in Capri, we walked to our Airbnb near Marina Grande. It was a 10–15-minute walk with our luggage, as we had to go up some staircases. The host met us out front and walked us to the room, where we could drop our bags. We arrived a bit before check-in, but we had a boat tour that began shortly after we arrived. You can find our Airbnb here: Casa Chiara. It was lunchtime, and we needed a quick bite before our boat tour that left from Marina Grande. Our host recommended a local sandwich shop called Cuccurullo Aldo, and it was exactly what we needed. It was full of locals, not tourists, and that’s how you know the food is authentic.

It was time for our 3-hour boat tour to explore the islands’ grottos. The famous Blue Grotto can be added for an additional fee since an independent company manages it. The line can be long, and you must go into a smaller boat. With the rocky water and my tendency to get seasick, we decided against it. Our boat driver took us through several other cool caves, and each view was amazing. We even got to jump in the water! I highly recommend a private tour because the group tours don’t get as deep into the grottos due to the boat size. We used Capri Precious Boat Tours, and I’d highly recommend it. We had a fantastic time going around the island; it was one of our highlights.

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My husband made a dinner reservation at La Zagara in Anacapri, so we went to the bus stop in Marina Grande to purchase tickets. We wanted to go a bit early to explore but grabbed a drink at La Zagara Wine Bar. Unfortunately, since it was Sunday, a lot of shops were closed. La Zagara is really a dream. The restaurant is situated under Casa Mariantonia's citrus grove. Each table was private and intimate, and we sat between two lemon trees. If you’re prone to bug bites, apply bug spray. Our meal was spectacular, and the service was excellent. This restaurant was one of our favorite overall dining experiences in Italy. To finish the evening, we grabbed some gelato while we waited at the bus stop. Unfortunately, we weren’t aware of the bus times, and we had to take one first to Capri and then to Marina Grande.

Day two:

After our comfortable night’s sleep, we decided to explore the town of Capri since we didn’t get the chance the previous day. We took a bus from Marina Grande to Capri and stopped at a café by the bus station for a doughnut and cappuccino. We made reservations at La Fontelina Beach Club for the day, so we decided to walk in that direction. You must make these reservations when they start booking for your dates, or you won’t be able to get in. Luckily, our dates were during low season, and we only had to make a reservation for one day. If you are going in the peak of summer, they require a 3-day reservation minimum.

The lunch seating was between 12:30-13:00, so we wanted to arrive when they opened at 10 to enjoy the loungers we reserved. First, we stopped at the Gardens of Augustus to check out the beautiful view. It was a couple of euros per person to go in. There is a bar in the gardens called Capri Rooftop Lounge Bar, but we arrived too early. Another viewpoint along the way is Belvedere Cannone, which offers a spectacular view for free. Once we checked these out, we walked down to the beach club. I would wear comfortable, grippy shoes to get there because there are a lot of steep stairs. I recommend packing your sandals in your beach bag.

We got to enjoy the peaceful view and sunshine when we sat at our reserved chairs. Remember, if you keep the umbrella or borrow towels, it’s an extra charge. We used both and ordered water upon arrival. A nice bathroom, showers, and changing rooms are at your disposal throughout the day. We swam in the designated area a couple of times to cool off. The water can be rough, so be cautious if you aren’t a strong swimmer. After a couple of hours, we went to the restaurant for our lunch seating. We ordered a limoncello spritz and peach bellini cocktail, followed by our main courses of gnocchi and ravioli. We were ready to leave shortly after lunch to return to our Airbnb. We took the first Boat Shuttle, which starts at 3, from the beach club to Marina Piccola for 7 euros per person. From there, we could take a bus back to Marina Grande.

Once we arrived, we freshened up for our dinner reservation at Ziqu Restaurant. The restaurant was only a 5-minute walk away, so we decided to enjoy some drinks on the patio that offered a beautiful view of Marina Grande. Ziqu Restaurant offered a very intimate ambiance. It was one of our favorite experiences: excellent food and terrific service. We enjoyed a glass of wine to and ordered the black Angus and fettuccine entrées. They were both spectacular and unlike any other food we had in Italy. We passed on dessert because we were full, and our server still brought us complimentary bite-sized desserts, which we enjoyed immensely. It was the perfect evening to end our time in Capri.

Travel Day:

We spent the morning tidying the space and packing our belongings to leave for Rome. Since it’s less expensive to fly out of the Rome airport, we opted to go back for a night before our departure the following day. It is an option to fly back from the Naples airport, but you may be paying more with less options or flexibility. Our check-out was at 10 a.m., and we booked our ferry at 11:20 a.m. to arrive in Sorrento. We arrived at the Marina Grande post 20 minutes before the scheduled departure. Our ferry was a bit late, making us nervous to miss our train to Rome scheduled to leave at 13:55. The ferry ride was around 20 minutes, and we met our driver directly at the port. We informed him of our train departure time, and he said he would do his best to get us there in time. Fortunately, the day we traveled was a Napoli holiday, and traffic was lighter than usual. He got us to the train station with time to spare. We paid the driver 130 euros and waited for our assigned platform number.

The train arrived in Rome at 15:05, and we walked to our last accommodation. This Airbnb was a 15-minute walk from the train station. We stayed at Enrica’s flat, who met us upon arrival.  She was friendly and provided local suggestions. We were tired from the day’s travels, so we decided to rest and refresh in the apartment before dinner. We ate at a nearby restaurant, La Taverna Italiana. It wasn’t our favorite meal, but a perfect last evening. On our way back to the apartment, we stopped at Gelateria Fassi for our final gelato. I ordered lemon and strawberry, and my husband got vanilla and coffee. It was extremely inexpensive and delicious. It was the ideal way to end our time in Italy.

Departure Day:

Our flight left at 12:55, so we wanted to arrive at least three hours early. We had pre-purchased our train tickets from Roma Termini to the Rome Fiumicino airport. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the train station, the trains were experiencing difficulties. Since we were nervous about missing our flight, we took a taxi from outside the train station and paid 50 euros to get to the airport. Being flexible when your travels don’t go as planned is essential. We had a once-in-a-lifetime experience in Italy and can’t wait to explore other cities in the future.  

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